I bored out the cap to fit the boss on the top of the casting, and to receive the little felt packing washer:
I bored out the cap to fit the boss on the top of the casting, and to receive
the little felt packing washer:
Then I cleaned up the outer edge:
And, started to part off:
Before finishing the parting cut, I switched to another tool to bevel the top edge of the cap:
Using the same bolt circle pattern, I drilled the mounting holes:
And, countersunk them for #4 socket head cap screws:
Here's the end plug casting, being turned to true up the back surface so it can be gripped in the vise jaws more securely:
I turned the front recess of the plug to clean it up:
And, brought the diameter down to fit the hole in the body casting:
Turning the cap around again, I cut off the extra thickness from the back side so it would sit flush in the body casting:
Using the same bolt circle, I drilled and countersunk the eight screw holes:
Because clearance was tight, I needed to turn down the heads
of the cap screws to fit my countersunk holes:
Here we go again, jumping ahead. Andy suggests that the oil level in
the housing be maintained at a particular level but he doesn't provide an easy
was to do that, so I thought I'd simply add an oil filler cup to the end plug.
I drilled the plug:
And tapped 1/8"NPT:
The filler cap simply screwed in place:
Once I had the machine
running, it was obvious that the pressure generated by the piston would tend
to pump oil out of the filler cap, so I added a little breather hole near
the top of the plug. You can see that hole in the final photos.
Now for the drive yoke.
I milled the casting for the slider:
And, milled both sides and ends of the yoke to clean them up
a bit and make the yoke easier to grip in the mill vise:
Held with a bit of lead on the cast surface, I cross-drilled the yoke to accept the piston rod:
I drilled for the securing screw:
Tapped the hole:
And countersunk for the 5/16" socket head cap screw:
A 1/16" slitting blade did a nice job to finish off the yoke:
I made the slider out of bearing bronze. All I had was some round stock, so I gripped it in the vise and milled a flat:
Then I turned the piece, and milled the other three flat faces:
After a bit of trial and error, I got a nice flush, sliding fit:
I drilled the piece:
And reamed it to 1/4" for the dowel pin that would connect it to the crank:
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Speaking of the crank, it was to be made of steel, and something over 2" in diameter. I had a nice piece of 3" cold rolled steel rod, but I didn't want to waste a bunch of it cutting the end off and mounting it on my lathe. So I took a trip over to the TechShop where I could use their nice fifteen-inch Clausing Colchester lathe. Bending the rules just a bit, I faced off the end of the rod, with too much hanging outboard from the chuck. I took it slow and easy for safety:
I center drilled the rod:
With the work well supported, I hogged off a bunch of diameter to produce the disc I needed:
Now, wasn't about to try to part off the piece at that distance from the chuck without support, and I do know enough not to do it with a center in place. So, I cut through about two thirds of the diameter with the parting tool:
Then, I took the piece over to the horizontal band saw to chop through the last bit:
Back home, I cleaned up the faces of the disc:
And drilled the center:
I bored to 5/8" for the drive shaft:
The little drive pin that connects the bronze slider is a one-inch long hardened 1/4" dowel pin. I had a two-inch pin, so I cut it with a carbide wheel on my Foredom:
I drilled the crank disc:
And reamed it for a press fit (.249).
A bit of green Loctite and a good strong shove, and my pin was seated in there "for the duration:"
Andy's instructions contain a line or two about balancing the crank wheel, so I thought it would be a fun addition to my project, and set about doing just that, not realizing that the mass of the rod, file and mounting hardware was so great as to obviate this step entirely.
But, I did it, so I thought I'd show it. I took an old wine cork, sanded it down a bit, and crammed it into the hole in the crank disc. Then I drilled through on center 1/16" to insert a balance pin:
